Baja is having a moment. Travelers have long been drawn to the narrow peninsula that’s surrounded by the Pacific on one edge and the Sea of Cortez, a.k.a. the Gulf of California, on the other. But what was once thought of by many as a place solely for weekend getaways, cheap lobster tacos, or working on a tan has so much more to offer. The rise of tourism, Mexican wine country, destination restaurants, wellness retreats, and digital nomadism has drastically changed the landscape and put pressures on infrastructure and sustainability. Herewith, we explore many facets of the new Baja—turn the page and open the flap to see how we mapped out our stories. And for those looking to learn a thing or two as they travel, we’ve created guides to the region’s four Pueblos Mágicos—part of a Secretary of Tourism–led initiative that recognizes and preserves Mexico’s most beautiful, culturally significant towns. Baja rhymes with aha for a reason—get exploring.
WHALE OF A TIME
Each winter, hundreds of gray whales stop at Baja’s Laguna San Ignacio to give birth—and invite humans to meet their calves.
SEA OF CHANGE
John Steinbeck’s Log from the Sea of Cortez captured his voyage to Baja, Mexico, and presaged many of today’s environmental concerns. The journey also provided temporary respite from his growing fame and failing marriage. By Joy Lanzendorfer • Photos by Penni Gladstone
PUEBLO MÁGICO: SANTA ROSALÍA
When France came to Mexico. By Rex Weiner • Photos by Tod Seelie
TIJUANA’S MERCADO HIDALGO IS A WORLD UNTO ITSELF
A writer who’s shopped at the beloved open-air market since childhood returns—and wonders how long it can hold on amid a changing border town. By Gustavo Arellano • Photos by Charlie Neuman
YOU CAN NEVER BE TOO OLD OR HAVE TOO MANY FRIENDS
The Modern Elder Academy, a mental-wellness retreat, offers support for those looking for a second act in their middle age and beyond. By Monica Corcoran Harel • Photos by Christina Gandolfo
PUEBLO MÁGICO: TODOS SANTOS
A desert oasis with an ocean view. By Rex Weiner • Photos by Tod Seelie
THE LOST MISSION OF SANTA ISABEL
In the mid-1700s, Jesuit priests hid untold riches in a Baja cave, planning to return one day and recover them. Or so the legend goes. By Geoffrey Gray • Illustration by Gran Om
THE PROBLEM WITH VALLE DE GUADALUPE
An early champion of Mexico’s popular wine country explores its growing pains—and the role he played in its expansion. By Bill Esparza • Photos by John Lok
ASK AN EXPERT
Where to find the best eats, drinks, and places to stay in Mexican wine country. (And, if you must, how to party in Ensenada.) By Bill Esparza • Photos by John Lok
PUEBLO MÁGICO: LORETO
The heart of the sea. By Rex Weiner • Photos by Tod Seelie
TASTE TEST
Is celebrity tequila worth the hype? By Anna Archibald • Photo by Andrea D'Agosto
OUT IN THE COUNTRY
Life on the rugged East Cape is not for everyone. And locals wouldn’t have it any other way. By Cindy Ray • Photos by Gordon Wiltsie
PUEBLO MÁGICO: TECATE
A beer-brewing town that whets curiosity. By Jesse Katz • Photos by Tod Seelie
FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES
A culinary tour of the best seafood in Baja. By Bill Esparza • Illustration by Zoe Matthiessen
